Daniel Isengart explores. Daniel Isengart, left, in his kitchen with his husband, Filip Noterdaeme, in Brooklyn last month. I hardly ever write things down anymore; I speak them into my phone. Not time-traveling to the famous Parisian salon of Alice B. Toklas and Gertrude Stein, who presided over a coterie of artists at 27 rue de Fleurus, including Pablo Picasso, who claimed various annoying eating restrictions, and Francis Picabia, who liked eggs. But to the next best thing, in Brooklyn Heights.

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I want all of her dishes, one after the other, never mind that the rest of the country would then be out of eggs, cream and butter for the next five or six years. I wouldnt care, having succumbed to a massive coronary just after the last luscious bite.

I used to have a first edition paperback of Ms. Then I read the introduction and was reminded of this: decades ago I worked for a print publication and became friendly with its very engaging food columnist, initially over a shared love of MFK Fisher. When he landed an interview with her, and not just an interview but lunch at her house, I extracted vows to Tell All afterwards.

When he came back to NY, I grabbed him — so?? Toklas forward, Fisher is primarily interested in only two things; her obsession over Ms. She goes off on a wild tear about how she knew Ms Toklas so well from reading her, and should have been afforded a face to face. Toklas lay like a sightless, speechless vegetable.

Fisher even snipes that daily she bought Ms. Fisher finally gets to the writing of the cookbook, but has to point out that as Ms.

She writes of her equal love for America and for France, her adopted home, and how their differences in approach to cooking and to dining inspired the cookbook. Toklas cookbook is still in print 65 years after it first appeared. So Fooey to you Mary Frances although I still love How to Cook a Wolf, but count yourself lucky nobody will ever ask me to write an introduction for it. Toklas: 20, MFK


‘The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook,’ Updated



The Alice B. Toklas Cookbook


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